Lazio’s Hidden Treasures of Italy in Viterbo: No. 2 “Double-Pizza”

The Famed “Double-Pizza”

A trip to Italy wouldn’t be complete without a bowl of pasta or a slice of pizza, and to coin a cliché I often frequented many local restaurants in search of delicious Italian cuisine. Rare is the inedible dish!
Viterbo hosts the famed Double-Pizza restaurants.

When you’re not watching a parade or Catholic procession one of the more famed eateries of Viterbo is Monastero. A popular place with both locals and unsuspecting visitors, as indicated by the bustling crowds which gather outside the doors waiting for a table to become free. If you want to eat here, you have to get here EARLY!

Named after the nearby monastery which overlooks the square, Monastero is one pizzeria known for the double-pizza, which, simply put, is two different pizzas fused together.  A variety of delicious flavours marks this place as a must for all lovers of delicious yet affordable dining.

Served on two plates the thin, crispy base is topped with any two types of pizza you wish. The ‘Monestero’ itself is a tomato-free pizza with mozzarella, prosciutto ham, and green olives – a favourite of mine. The food is delicious with authentic toppings which don’t leave your palate swimming in grease like a Dominoes.

Unfriendly Staff and Favouritism

However, with the pizza comes a price. To eat here you have to suffer the rude treatment of the staff. By saying the Italian staff have favourites amongst their own people here is an understatement. Being a group of foreigners we were made to feel an inconvenience and were hurried through the motions.

Through the snarls of the rotund proprietor we hastened through our order of drinks and pizza choices as though we carried some kind of leprosy. And, as if by magic, the bill arrived as soon as the last plate had been swept away from the table.

We felt rushed. And yet, on the table opposite, an entire family of Italians who had long since finished their meal were casually playing on their phones. Guffawing with the staff as though sat in their own living room. It was not an incentive to return.

A More Enjoyable Alternative

If you want the same double-pizza – or as near as damn it! – then I highly recommend Tutta N’ata Storia for an all-over pleasurable dining experience. It is slightly cheaper and with a much more welcoming atmosphere

A five-minute walk away from the hustle and bustle, and much more friendly, the Tutta N’ata Storia welcomes all its guests with an easy pace and relaxed atmosphere. The pizzas are on par with its rival but the flavour is enhanced by the enjoyment of the whole experience.

To be fair, the treatment here is nothing more than what you would expect from a decent restaurant back home. No more, no less. But after the arrogance and discourteous attitude of its competitor it seems a whole other level of hospitality. Even the other diners seem friendlier!

The pizza choices are almost identical to its rival’s and the quality is just as good, but the quality of the service is much more homely and enjoyable. I recommend Tutta N’ata Storia as the place to go for a double-pizza, and for a fun, agreeable evening with friends.

Monastero’s own double-pizza, fused with tuna on the left (circa 2016). Photo by Steph.



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